Step 15: Feed the battery cables through their slot in the lower case.įeeding the battery cables back through their hole in the case There is a groove in the case designed to run them through: Step 14: Run the wires back down in their channel in the case. It has a place moulded into the case to hold it in place. Step 13: Re-seat the reset button (if necessary).
It is round on the side that goes in first: Note that the color of the wire is imprinted on the plastic behind the connectors: The first step for me was connecting the white and black wires under where the circuitboard sits. Step 8: Reassemble your completely-quiet APC. Here’s what it looked like when I got it out: Solder point locations for buzzer–note you can see the silhouette of the round buzzer through the back-lit circuit board With my light behind the board you can see the round silhouette of the buzzer through the board: I then grabbed the buzzer on one side and pulled gently on it while I heated each leg individually and popped out the buzzer. I took some solder braid and removed the solder from the back of the board. My single digit-sized resisters are huge and high powered (and there’s not enough room on the back side of the board and I didn’t want to waste a $4 resister) so I opted to take it to the next level… Step 7: Remove the Buzzer. The buzzer must have a much lower resistance than 1K so that is why it didn’t make any difference to have the resister installed. I considered lowering the volume by putting a resister across the buzzer and tried 10K Ohm and 1K Ohm resisters, but that still didn’t lower the voltage any noticeable amount: I considered putting a piece of tape over the hole in the top of the buzzer but when I placed my finger over the hole I still could hear the buzzer quite a bit so I felt like I needed to do something more extreme.
Mine was almost in the middle of the board and was labeled BZ1: The transformer will be loose, the power plug grommet will come out of the case, the reset button will come out, and the circuitboard will come loose too, and this is what it probably will look when you get yours apart (note that the circuitboard came up and out of its slot and the transformer is sitting on the desk out of the case, and a couple wire connectors came off too): Lower case removed and all the internal components in their place I actually took the picture below when I was re-assembling it because I forgot to take a picture when I was disassembling it. The picture below shows you what you’ll see if everything stays in place (which wasn’t the case for me). Step 5: Feed the battery cables completely through their slot and remove the lower case.
#Apc be 550g how to
The circuitboard may come out of its slot and there are a couple other cables that may become disconnected as you separate the halves, but don’t worry about that–I tell you how to re-assemble it later. You will need to feed the positive and negative cables through the slot they feed through the lower case. They are located deep in the holes as follows:īe careful not to lose a screw as they will fall out and hide if you’re not careful. How to Replace the Battery in a APC Back-UPS ES 500 Battery Backup Step 3: Remove the 5 phillips-head screws from the case. I have detailed the steps to swap out the battery on the post below: Step 2: Flip the APC over and remove the battery.
#Apc be 550g software
When the power goes out (or the batteries go bad), these APC’s let off an obnoxious piezo-electric beep-beep-beep, which is not cool to your wife when it wakes up the napping kids!!! I’ve read that you can disable the alarm with the windows software but I’ve not had any luck linking it up with an APC and I’m a Mac user anyway so I just wanted to permanently disable the alarm. The problem is, I have small children whose rooms are right above this room. I wanted to take a recently repaired APC Back-UPS ES 500 Battery backup (I replaced the battery) and have it provide backup power to my AT&T U-Verse modem and wireless access point. An APC Back-UPS ES 500 that needs a little modification
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